Right-angle weave — RAW, once you're friends — joins beads in squares of four: one bead along the top, one along the bottom, a bead on each side. The thread only ever turns at right angles between them, which is where the name comes from; Wikipedia's summary of the stitch describes the thread as making only right-angle turns. Sides are shared: units side by side share the bead between them, and the new row shares its top bead with the one above. The app's lesson ends that sentence with the stitch's whole character: so the work bends like fabric.
That bending is the difference between RAW and every grid stitch on this site. Square stitch and herringbone build stiff panels; RAW builds a net whose squares pivot on their shared beads, which is why a RAW band lies along a wrist and a RAW cuff hugs instead of standing off it. Pull the rings snug as you go and the squares stay firm; the fabric is real, but so is the cloth's body.
One more habit that makes RAW its own craft: the app counts units, not cells. Four units across sits on five chart columns, because the shared beads between units are chart cells too — and the chart's rows take turns, rows of beads lying along the units' tops and bottoms, then rows of beads standing at the sides. Its Make step simply says which bead goes where: top, bottom, left side or right side.
| Item | What to get | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| The beads | Round seed beads, size 8 or 11 | Round beads sit neatly at the corners of each square; size 8 is bigger and easier to see — the app starts its first RAW project in 8s. Sizes 6/0 and 15/0 chart too, at their own pace |
| Needle | Size 12 beading needle | The app's reason: fine enough to pass through each bead two or three times — RAW revisits beads often |
| Thread | Beading thread, such as FireLine | A strong thread that holds the squares firm. Start about 1.5 m (5 ft), add as you go |
| Clasp | One, for a bracelet or cuff | Closing a RAW band is a weave-in and knot job — pass both ends back, knot between beads, trim — then the clasp does the wearing part |
| Extras | Scissors | That's the list. No loom, no frame, no stop bead — RAW starts with a ring of four |
The app's RAW sizes are named in units — 4 units across, 7 in long — and their arithmetic works like this: one unit measures about a bead's length plus its width, less a tenth for round beads nestling at the corners. For an 11/0 round (1.4 mm long, 2.1 mm wide) that's 3.15 mm a unit; for an 8/0, 4.59 mm. No maker publishes a RAW gauge, so the app flags it an estimate — the bead and unit counts, though, are exact.
A repeat of the chart shares its top bead row with the repeat before — a repeat is one chart row fewer than the pattern shows — and the app picks the whole number of repeats closest to your 7 in target:
| Starter | Bead | Units | Repeats the app picks | The piece | About |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bracelet | Round 11/0s | 4 across | 14 | 113 chart rows — 56 rows of units | 7.0 in long, 14.7 mm wide |
| Narrow band | Round 8/0s | 2 across | 10 | 81 chart rows — 40 rows of units | 7.3 in long, 12.2 mm wide |
| Wide cuff | Round 11/0s | 8 across | 9 | 109 chart rows — 54 rows of units | 6.8 in long, 27.3 mm wide |
Honesty about that last row: nine repeats is the closest whole repeat to 7 in, and it lands a shade under — add one more repeat of the cuff's pattern if you want the full 7 inches. Widths don't drift like lengths do: they're units × the unit size plus one bead's width from edge bead to edge bead, counted from the outside of the outermost beads.
The app's beginner examples both hang in this space: the Two-color band, three units across and two down in size 8 rounds (cobalt on white), and the Checkerboard, four units across in 11s. The pattern packs name their RAW weaves for what they look like — crosses, checks, stripes, columns, diamonds, zigzags, lattice — and every one of them is the same four corners moved around.
| Symptom | The real cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| The squares lean and flop like an open net | The rings weren't pulled snug as each unit closed | Pull every ring taut before the next unit; FireLine holds the firmness where the thread alone won't |
| The next unit starts on the wrong bead and the figure eight derails | The thread's exit bead got passed once too often — the path repeats in a strict cycle | Find the bead the thread comes out of; the next unit starts there. Unpick the last unit and re-round it |
| A hole where a unit's side or top should be | An empty chart cell — every unit carries a bead on all four sides, and shared sides mean an empty cell echoes into two units | Fill the gaps on the chart in Design before you start; the app flags each gapped unit's row |
| The band's shape wanders as you work | Tension drifting, usually looser where you slowed down | Same pull, same click, every ring. The app's counts make the arithmetic exact; the tension makes it look like arithmetic |
| A cuff or bracelet finished shorter than the size sheet promised | Whole repeats round to the nearest length — the cuff's nine repeats land about 6.8 in | Add one more repeat before you finish; RAW's shared edge row makes that painless |
| The thread has sawn through a bead's side mid-row | A thin needle's edge, or thread re-passing a rough bead three times in one spot | Change needles early and often; the size 12 is specified because RAW passes each bead two or three times |
Plain arithmetic on the app's starter counts — every chart cell holds a bead except the never-used last cell of each lying row — with the shopping list's 10% spare (advanced mode offers 0, 10 or 20%), the app's per-gram figures — 11/0 rounds count out at 110 to the gram, 8/0s at 39 — and the shop's real tubes (8.5 g for Miyuki 11/0s, 22 g for 8/0s):
| Starter | Beads in the piece | With the 10% spare | Grams | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bracelet (4 units across) | 508 | 559 | 5.1 g | 1 tube of 8.5 g |
| Narrow band (2 units across) | 202 | 223 | 5.7 g | 1 tube of 22 g |
| Wide cuff (8 units across) | 926 | 1,019 | 9.3 g | 2 tubes of 8.5 g |
Thread, on the same arithmetic: the app estimates the bracelet at about 3.1 m (3.4 yd) — the thread rounds every unit and re-passes each bead two or three times, plus 60 cm to finish — labelled a rough estimate on the Supplies screen. For perspective, that's less thread than square stitch asks for the same-sized chart, and more than peyote: RAW borrows most of its beads, but it charges rent in passes. Shopping notes worth taking to the store: galvanized finishes can rub off with wear and dyed colors can fade in sun or water — Duracoat and PermaFinish are made to last — and the shopping list raises a line when it sees either. The shopping-list builder runs this math in the browser, and the app's Supplies tab works it off your RAW chart, repeats and shared rows included.
And what the method doesn't cover, honestly: cubic and prismatic RAW, the two-needle version, tubes, and units with more than one bead to a side — the app charts flat, one-bead RAW only. Wikipedia and Beadaholique describe the rest; the square-of-four here is the corner they all turn from.
Once the first few units sit snug, the counts do the rest: 4, then 3, then 2, then the sound of thread finding its square. The square-stitch guide is the grid you can count when you want a stiffer panel, and the brick guide hangs shaped rows off a ladder instead. For the words you just met — unit, tail, tension — the glossary has them drawn out.