Slide a spare bead a few inches along your thread, leave it there — it holds the first row together while you work, and comes off at the end. Every peyote start needs it; every chart assumes it.
Peyote builds in offset columns, which is why the first two rows trick people: pick up the beads for row 1 and row 2 in one go (the chart's first two rows, alternating), then turn — you're threading back through them to build the offset. The chart's row 3 is the first row you bead one bead at a time.
Row 3's rhythm, from the standard tutorials the app cites: pick up one bead, skip one, go through the next bead that sticks up. The "up-beads" — the row-2 beads leaning out of the row — are exactly what you thread through; as you stitch, the up-beads change hands row by row. Read the chart's colors row by row: each new bead sits between two old ones, and the picture grows in half-step offsets — that lean is the peyote look.
The direction you read the chart while stringing (left-to-right, then back the next row) decides where your thread tail meets the clasp end — and the app validates the direction choice by simulating it for charts from 2 to 15 columns, in both 1-drop and 2-drop, so the "wrong direction" failure never surprises you. Rule of thumb: count the picture's columns; the first row you pick up carries the first AND second chart rows in one string.
Odd-width peyote can't make the turn cleanly — the turn needs one special pass (through the corner bead and down) that's called the odd-count turn. The chart won't show it; your hands need to know it. Kandi cuffs on pony beads skip the drama: chunky 1-drop is forgiving, and the offsets read the same.