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Brick stitch: rows hung on a ladder

What brick stitch is

Brick stitch hangs rows off a ladder. The ladder — beads joined side by side with their holes upright — is the widest row of the piece. Every row after is caught on the thread between two beads of the row below, so each row sits half a bead out of line with the one before, like courses of bricks. The app's own lesson opens with exactly that: "Each new bead is caught on the thread between two beads of the row below, so the rows sit offset like bricks in a wall."

Because rows hang rather than stack, they can grow and shrink freely — one bead fewer each row makes a point, which is the entire trick behind brick's favorite shapes. The app draws its earring starters as a Triangle, Point down, Diamond or Hexagon, and each narrows to a two-bead tip, one bead fewer per row out from the widest. Artbeads' brick tutorial works the same arithmetic: fewer beads a row makes the point, and since every row starts by picking up two beads, two is where a tip stops.

If you've already read the peyote guide, there's a quiet joke here. Peyote's first warning was to start over if your beads sat in a ladder — flat, side by side, wrong. Brick stitch starts exactly there. The ladder the peyote chart avoids is brick's row zero, and herringbone starts from the same strip. One ladder, two stitches.

The one mental model to hold: a new bead hangs on the thread loop — the bit of thread showing between two beads of the row below. The needle never passes through the beads of the row below; it passes under the loop. That is why brick rows hang so freely, and why the loop has to be there.

The supplies, honestly minimal

ItemWhat to getNotes
The beadsDelica cylinder beads, size 11/0Their even shape keeps the rows straight, the app's own reason for starting you here. Round seed beads size 11/0 or 15/0 chart too — softer look, same moves
NeedleSize 10 or 12 beading needleA long, thin needle made for seed beads
ThreadStart with about 1.5 m (5 ft)A longer thread means fewer joins; you can add more later. The app's thread lesson says both
FindingsEar wires and jump ringsOne of each per earring; a pendant takes a bail instead. Those two are the whole findings list — no clasp, the earrings hang themselves
ExtrasScissorsThat's the kit. No loom, no frame, no stop bead — brick starts from a tail

The starters, and how shapes come out of them

Brick makes single pieces, not strips that repeat to a length — an earring is worked twice, a pendant once. So a starter's size isn't a length target; it's the chart you draw on. The app offers three:

StarterThe chartThe beadNotes
Earrings11 beads across, 11 rowsDelicas, 11/0A pair — the Supplies list counts it twice
Earrings with fringe13 beads across, 12 rows, fringe belowDelicas, 11/0A pair. The fringe hangs from the lowest bead of each column
Pendant15 beads across, 20 rowsDelicas, 11/0One piece — the blank one you draw your shape on

Two things the app does with those charts are worth knowing before your first bead. First, a brick chart starts empty — the outline you draw is the design, and the widest row you draw is the ladder Make works from. Second, More > Earring shape will draw the shape for you: Triangle, Point down, Diamond or Hexagon. The shape's rows come one bead fewer out from the widest, down to the two-bead tip — the app describes a triangle as "From 11 beads at the bottom to 2 at the top". Where a hexagon stops, it stops at flat ends about half as wide as its middle, so its sloping sides stay about as long as its ends.

The sizes, while they're on screen: brick beads stand with their holes upright, so each row climbs the bead's length — 1.3 mm for a Delica — and the width runs edge to edge of the beads you actually drew. The app says it plainly: a brick stitch piece measures the beads drawn, not the chart — an earring is usually drawn smaller than its chart, which starts empty. Draw nothing, buy nothing.

The ladder

  1. The tail. String two beads, leaving a 6 in (15 cm) tail. The tail is what you bury later.
  2. The first rung. Go back through both beads so they sit side by side with their holes upright. Holes upright is furniture that bears weight: every row that follows hangs off this strip, and the app's first tip says to keep the holes upright so the ladder stays straight.
  3. The figure eight. For each next bead: string it, go back through the bead before it, then through the new bead again. Repeat until the ladder is as wide as the widest row of your chart. The thread path is what locks the rungs — it's Artbeads' ladder stitch, the same strip the herringbone guide teaches.
  4. The exit. Before you start a row, check that the thread comes out of the top of the last bead. If it comes out of the bottom, turn the piece so it does — the app's tip, and its Make steps assume the thread exits the top every time.

The stitch: two beads, then one per loop

  1. Start each row with two beads. Pick up two, and pass the needle under the thread loop between the second and third beads of the row below. Go up through the second new bead, down through the first, and up through the second again. That three-pass weave is what bolts the pair together and to the ladder — Artbeads' brick tutorial, verbatim as a thread path.
  2. Add the rest one at a time: pick up one bead, pass under the next thread loop, and go back up through the new bead. Loop, bead, snug; loop, bead, snug.
  3. Count with the rule printed on every row. The app's Make steps say "start with 2 beads, then 1 bead on each loop" — every row, every time — so nobody reads a ten-bead row as one pickup.
  4. Work out from the ladder. The lesson's order: work from the ladder up to the top of the shape, then come back to the ladder and work any rows below it. Make takes the same route — the ladder first, the rows above it, then "Go back to the ladder row and start working downward".
  5. Turn the piece if it helps. You may find it easier to turn at every row so you always stitch right to left — the app suggests it, and the arrow on each row of Make shows the way even if you don't.
Where the brick stitch sources sit: the two-bead start, the one-per-loop rule and the point-making are all Artbeads' how to brick stitch. Some patterns start a decreased row with four beads instead (Perles & Co's double-brick earrings show it); the app teaches the two-bead start, and Make expects it.

Growing and shrinking: the app's own row rules

The shape of the piece is the widths of its rows, and every width change has a move. The app reads each row's width against the row it hangs from and prints the difference right on the row:

The row vs the one belowWhat happensThe move
One bead fewer (a decrease)The usual narrowing — rows one narrower each way make the point of an earringThe ordinary row: the two-bead start, then one per loop. This is why it gets no note at all
One bead more (an increase)The shape widens"Start under the first thread loop instead of the second, and at the end add one more bead on the last loop" — the app's note verbatim; Perles' Corner and Fire Mountain Gems teach the same two moves
The same widthThe row sits half a bead out to one side — that's the brick-offset look at full widthOut where you start: begin under the first loop. Out where you finish: the usual start plus one more bead on the last loop. Make works out which side and says so
More than one bead either wayThe row can't read itself off the loop countThe app tells you plainly: check the chart for where the row starts and ends

The same-width rule is the honest geometry of this stitch: rows stay dead-centered only when the widths step by one, three or five. A row with the same number of beads as its neighbor, or two more or fewer, can only sit half a bead to one side — a wall whose courses don't alternate, which is brick's geometry doing its thing rather than your tension misbehaving. The app's examples are drawn with one-bead steps for exactly this reason.

Two is the floor. A brick row always starts by picking up two beads, so no row — point, tip or edge — carries fewer than two. A one-bead row has no loop to start the next properly; the app's shapes stop at two.

Fringe, strand by strand

Fringe — the part that makes it look like a lot more work than it was — hangs from the lowest bead of each column. The app's Make tab builds the fringe steps after the rows, strand by strand, following the thread you already have:

  1. Get to the bottom edge, at the end where your last row finished. Make's first fringe step says "Start at the left/right end, where row N finished: your thread is already on the bottom edge." If your last row finished at the top, it says to weave down through the beads along that edge, or start a new thread at the bottom — the thread never crosses the whole width behind the beads first.
  2. The strand. "Come out of the bottom of the bead this strand hangs from. Pick up from the top down, skip the last bead, then go back up through the rest and up through that bead." The skipped bead becomes the strand's swinging tip. It's Fire Mountain Gems' fringe move, and Beadaholique's fringed brick project threads the same way.
  3. On to the next. "Then weave over and come out of the bottom of the next strand's bead" — and the last strand's step ends: weave in the thread and tie it off.

The Fringe sheet has opinions about the shape of the fringe, which it will make for any drawn earring: all the strands one length, longest in the middle, longest at the sides, or a wave. The shortest strand starts at about four tenths of the longest, every strand is editable bead by bead (40 is the most a strand can carry), and the app counts the longest strand into the earring's finished height — the beads of a fringe add their length straight down, since the holes run up and down.

When it goes wrong

SymptomThe real causeFix
The ladder is bumpy and the rows lean from the first rows onThe ladder's holes weren't upright, so the columns started crookedRe-ladder with the holes upright — a figure-eight ladder of eleven Delicas is a five-minute rebuild, cheaper than any row that inherits it
A row bulges out where the earring should stay levelA same-width row (or two apart): brick geometry pushes it half a bead out of linePick the side the chart wants: start under the first loop for the starting side, or the usual start plus a spare bead on the last loop for the finishing side. Make prints which one
Rows sag, or a bead sits double where one belongsA loop missed, or two beads caught on one loopCount by the printed rule — 2 to start, then 1 on each loop — and the loop count becomes the bead count. Unpick back to the last row that still looks solid and rebuild from there
The tip won't close to a single beadIt isn't supposed to: a brick row starts with two, so two is the floorLet the point end at two beads — that's the tip every app shape narrows to
The thread estimate ran out mid-earringIt's a rough estimate, as the Supplies screen says — brick passes round every loop and the fringe strands thread their beads twiceWork with an arm's length or so and add thread as you go; joins hidden between beads are invisible in this stitch
The fringe strands end up the wrong lengths on the finished earringThe strand colors and lengths were read in the wrong order — strands are numbered in the order you work themFollow the Make order, first strand at the end where the rows finished; the app starts the fringe where your thread is

The bead math, on the app's examples

Plain arithmetic on the app's own drawn example patterns, with the shopping list's 10% spare (advanced mode offers 0, 10 or 20%), Delicas counted at 200 beads to the gram, and the shop's real 7.2 g Delica tube. The app deliberately claims grams and never packs — tube sizes vary by seller — so the grams are the truth and the tube is the errand:

Example pieceBeads all toldWith the 10% spareGramsBuy
Triangle earrings (a pair, 2–11 beads a row, 10 rows)1301430.7 g1 tube of 7.2 g
Fringe earrings (a pair, 2–13 a row + 13 strands, 2 to 14 beads long)3764142.1 g1 tube of 7.2 g

Thread, on the same arithmetic: the app estimates about 3.2 bead-diameters of thread per bead, plus 50 cm a piece, and labels it a rough estimate — the pair of triangle earrings works out to about 1.7 m (1.8 yd). The Pendant pack starts blank at 15 across and 20 rows: its beads are the ones your drawing uses, so the Supplies list literally cannot lie to you until you've drawn. The shopping-list builder runs the same math in the browser — beads × rows or drawn shapes with the spare, grams and tubes per line — with the finishing notes attached: galvanized finishes can rub off with wear and dyed colors can fade in sun or water, and Duracoat or PermaFinish are the made-to-last finishes when the list sees one.

And what the method doesn't cover, honestly: circular brick and the fancy 3D builds. The app charts flat rows on a ladder — earrings, fringes, pendants — and stops there. The loop and the two-bead start in your hands, though, are the whole of what those tutorials build on.

Next on your bench

Once the ladder and the loop are under your hands, the shapes build themselves — two to start, one per loop, next row. The herringbone guide starts from the very same ladder and leans pairs into Vs; the cross-stitch guide moves a grid of beads onto fabric instead. And for the words you just met — ladder, thread loop, tail — the glossary has them drawn out.

The same ladder, leaning pairs 🐟

The glossary: ladder, thread loop, tail →